How does cutting diamonds in different shapes evolve with the time in the diamond industry?
Posted by Hari Krishna
June 29, 2022
“The rich geometric tapestry of different diamond cuts”
The history of the dazzling gem is not only shiny but filled with various styles like patterned tiles of time.
The evolution of diamond cut has a major role to play in today’s diamond industry.
No doubt, technology is a game changer, but an artisan’s creativity is still considered the main reason for bringing new diamond cuts into the market as time goes on.
Human civilization has witnessed diamonds as currency in ancient times and now as a symbol of love.
Diamond is a treasure that captivates everyone and will undoubtedly reign for many centuries.
But do you know that the diamonds of today are not the same as before?
In the centuries before, diamonds were a girl’s best friend and are still. However, few people are aware of the history and heritage that these magnificent structures have been carrying for years.So we decided to tell the story of a diamond cut or diamond shape that has evolved over time and reached new heights in diamond history.
The history of diamond cutting dates back to the middle ages, when diamonds began to be used as a fashionable element in Europe.
Let’s surf the detailed history of brilliant beauty with reference to time.
Being an Indian diamond company, we feel proud to tell you that it is considered that diamonds were first found in India and maintained as loose and without polishing.
People of India believed that diamonds held spiritual as well as magical power.
Formerly, diamonds were worn in jewellery by the kings and queens of the royal families of India in their original form, that is, without cut and polish.
◇ Point Cut
The point cut came to life in the mid-14th century to enhance the rough diamond’s appearance. Point cut is actually a misnomer, with a simple polishing of the octahedral crystal faces.
◇ Table cut
In the mid-15th century, the point cut started to evolve. Forming a square with four step-down edges, some part of the octahedron would be sawn off.
This type of table cut was the first recognized diamond cut broadly. It can be seen that the coveted emerald cut diamond popular today evolved from this table cut.
The people of Rome liked to style point cut diamonds in rings and additional jewelry, and they oriented with the same approach to the Europeans.
◇ Heart Cut
Very soon after the table cut, the heart cut diamond emerged from Europe.
◇ Pear Cut
This cut was developed in the year 1458 by the Flemish diamond polisher Lodewyk van Bercken, the one who also invented the scaif polishing wheel.
This wheel helped him with cutting the facets with precision and led him to the more intricate cutting of diamonds.
◇ Rose Cut
As the name reflects, the rose cut resembled a rosebud. Surprisingly, the rose cut became a favorite diamond cut entirely in the 1800s.
The noteworthy feature of a rose cut is that it is dome-shaped at the top, and flat at the bottom. The 24 facets of it impart a soft sheen.
◇ Briolette Cut
Originated from the rose cut, the briolette cut is a three-dimensional teardrop shape that has 48 to 88 facets.
In the rest of the 19th century, this briolette cut diamond became highly fashionable and desirable in European monarchy throughout
◇ Single Cut
The single or eight cut consists of a flat table encircled by eight or nine facets on the crown.
◇ Mazarin Cut
The Mazarin Cut was designed in the mid-1600 and has 17 facets on the crown.
Another name for this cut is the double-cut brilliant, as it has doubled the facets of the single-cut diamond.
◇ Peruzzi Cut
The Peruzzi Cut is an improved Mazarin Cut that came around the 1700s. It has 33 crown facets and was named the triple-cut brilliant, too.
◇ Marquise Cut
Because of the marquise diamond’s boat-like formation, Marquise diamonds are also often called “Navette” diamonds.
The marquise cut’s roots date back to the 18th century. Over time, the marquise cut developed into the unique shape known today.
In the late 1800s, with the invention of the new bruting machine, the steam-driven bruting machine, and the motorized saw, diamond cutting was transformed.
This revolution helped cutters to shape-round and more brilliant diamonds.
The modern diamond industry bloomed in cutting when, in the mid to late 19th-century, new diamond mines were found in South Africa.
◇ Old Mine Cushion Cut
Evolved from the Peruzzi cut, the old mine or cushion cut had a slightly curved edge which formed a soft square with a small table, high crown, and larger culet, giving it an architectural look.
◇ Old European Cut (Victorian Cut)
An old European-cut diamond featured 58 large facets with a round shape and a small circle in the center. Between 1890 and the 1930s, the major stock of these stones was cut by hand.
Just like the old mine cut, the old European (or Victorian) cut had 58 facets on the crown, with a more rounded profile.
This diamond shape rose to prominence following the invention of a steam-powered diamond lathe in the mid-1870s, and it remained popular until the 1930s.
◇ Transition Cut
Henry Morse, a master cutter in America, invented the Transition cut in the 1870s.
He was the first to willingly sacrifice a large portion of the rough diamond to display the diamond’s most admiring form.
During the Art Deco era, diamond rings earned great demand and the round old European cut was the favorite cut.
◇ Asscher Cut
The first patented diamond cut, the Asscher cut, was invented in 1902. Asscher cut diamonds are distinct from a square emerald cut as they have larger step facets, a higher crown, a smaller table, and more brilliance.
The corners are trimmed to give the shape an octagonal look.
◇ Baguette Cut
The baguette cut was designed back in the mid-1500s, though it became popular in 1912 when Cartier again introduced the cut to the modern world. Its elongated, rectangular shape became trendy in the geometric sensation during the Art Deco period.
◇ Emerald Cut
Standardized in the 1940s, the emerald diamond cut was the first to have a faceted diamond cut, and the cut has a hall of mirrors effect that adds drama to it.
Over the evolution period, old European and transition cut diamonds made way for the modern brilliant cut, which is still conquering the world.
◇ Oval Cut
The modern oval cut was developed in the early 1960s and has 58 facets, making it today’s modern brilliant cut.
◇ Radiant Cut
The radiant cut was invented in 1977 in New York with the aim of making a square cut but with the brilliance of the modern round cuts. The original radiant cut diamond had 70 facets on the crown, but the inventor ultimately settled on 66 facets.
◇ Princess Cut
The modern princess cut diamond is square and has a totally different facet pattern than its variant, the radiant cut diamond.
The biggest evolution in today’s diamond industry is due to the Mapping software. This is used to gain the maximum output from the rough diamond.
LASER technology has changed the diamond cutting industry, as it permits the cutting of previously unworkable materials and can greatly reduce the risk of damage.
The Brushing process of rotating a diamond against another diamond is used to round or give shape to diamonds. With this, the stone’s precise shape can be determined, including the girdle’s diameter, location and the table and culet’s locations.
As a leading natural diamond manufacturer and jewelry maker, we aim to keep shining like a diamond. Like diamond shapes or cuts evolved with the time, we are also in the process of evolution.
Wondering how?
We also ceased the opportunity to bring change in the diamond industry by introducing ‘Bespoke Diamonds’.
What are bespoke diamonds?
Bespoke Diamonds are custom-made gems that customers can get designed according to their requirements.
Bringing a diamond of your dreams to life is not difficult anymore. You can have a unique and personalized diamond cut that means any diamond shape by designing your own.
Can’t believe it?
We are pleased to announce that we are enabling this service so that you can get “Custom Shape Diamonds” at a spectacular price, and the best part is that you do not need to wait long!
Just register at hk.co and tell us your requirements and we will be happy to assist you!
